The Brakes.


The handbrake is fitted and just need adjusting, so lets get on with the rest of the braking system.
Originally we were looking to get a seal kit for the front brake calipers but "Linco" could not source the kits for these he offered to price up some new calipers, but I said no "Thinking they would cost a bomb". I saw an advert for reconitioned parts in a place in Newark, he wanted 38 each.
I decided to ask on my mate Steve at Hi/Q in Gainsborough if he could source the seals, his answer was to get rebuilt items as they are cheap!
I phoned Linco and was given both calipers for 44.18. So be careful kit car suppliers are not always that cheap as you can see.

Joey Kurusting the other side of the caliper!

The nice shiny bits are the new bits, you use the other bits off your donors brakes. We Will paint them silver so they both match.
Next step is the brake pipes, for some strange reason in the kit we got "3" brake pipes!
Correct me if I am wrong but I think the minimum quantity of solid brake pipe required is 8 bits of pipe. 2 at the front going from the Master Cylinder to the front flexy pipes. 1 from the Master Cylinder to the compensating valve, 1 from the Compensating valve to the "T" piece, 2 to both rear flexy pipes and finally 2 from the rear flexy's to the wheel cylinders.
We have now had the pipes made up (Thanks Steve) and will be fitting them once we can get in past all the wires.

New stoppers

Ok now is the time to fit the front calipers, Joey was eager to do this and he managed it all single handed, Oh well I did tighten the caliper bolts just in case but he did the rest.We have used new pads and disks as well so it all looks really nice and shiney

Now where does that blinking spring go Dad ?

There you go mate another job "Well done"

I'm glad we are not rushing this Dad

Here is how we have routed the front brake flexys (and light trunking) through the sidepanels, I has been said that it is "over engineering" and that bolting them straight through the stainless would be fine, but having been an aircraft engineer for so long I am well used to "over engineering".
We have made up some ally brackets on both sides of the stainless, we will finish them off totally Black and think it will look good.



This is the inside plate. You can see the 4 bolts around the connector and the other two are the ones that join the side and infill panels.



This is a shot of the tunnel just before panelling it up, the two fuel pipes are on the LH panel the brake pipes are on the right side, the electrics are routed down the centre of the tubes.



Where the brake pipe follows the tunnel down beside the gearbox we have put spacers under the p clips to hold them away from the tunnel in case there is any vibration around this point and it also makes it easier to go round the corner towards the master cylinder.



Another view of the spacers and brake pipes.

This view shows how the pipes and cables are kept apart.



Towards the rear this is how the brake pipe routes over the "Dion tube" its well clear of the fuel pipe and the handbrake quadrant.



Then the pipe gets to the T-piece which splits off to either side. It is bolted to the "Handbrake" cable bracket that we made up earlier. We have put the T-piece towards the LH side so it goes directly into the LH Flexy pipe where on the RH side it has a short solid pipe before it gets to the Flexy.



The short RH pipe had to negotiate a chassis tube and we have done it like this (Plenty of P-Clips)



And this is the view underneath the Handbrake cable bracket, Th p-clip is again fitted on a spacer to keep the pipe clear. Footnote: This was the major fail point on our SVA test! The angle bracket flexed a very small amount when the Handbrake was applied, so this was not deemed to be a suitable place to bolt on a "Rigid Brake Pipe".
The SVA Inspector said it was such a small amount of flex that the rigid pipe would probably have never failed but it was not worth risking it. "Fair comment in our view". Look at the SVA section to see how we resolved this problem.




We later decided to get rid of the Servo to save some room, It will also allow us to tilt the pedal box slightly so we could get some more foot room. Removing it was an easy task we got an extension from "Tiger Racing" and the Master cylinder then Just bolted straight to the pedal box. Much tidier. We also did not fit the Compensator valve we did not think it was necessary and in the end we were right. To help on the braking side we got some Green Stuff EBC Pads.




This is the Bar from "Tiger Racing" not a lot to it..............
Is there?



Footnote: All in all we are happy wih our braking setup, It is a bit of a shock when you first press the pedal down and nothing seems to happen, but then you remember and press harder and hey presto the brakes work fine.

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