Now the wiring loom.
Spaghetti junction! Suddenly there is no room in the car, its full of wires.
Joey loosly fitted the front headlights so we can test them when we do go "Power on".
Here's a picture of the fusebox after we had removed the lights from it. On the Ford it has seperate fuses for LH and RH, well sod that! We are fusing the side dipped and mainbeam as one each, 3 fuses as opposed to 6 not a bad saving we think.
Sorry there is so many pictures of "Wires" its just we got told off for not updating the website enough, so is this OK Big Jim?
This is Joey holding our new 10 way fusebox, We put in the circuits for the rear of the car then we labelled up our fusebox and removed all the wires running to the rear lights.
We intend having a central loom through the tunnel which splits in the boot area, the Rh loom will power the Rh light cluster and the Lh loom will power the Lh cluster, the numberplate light,and the fog and reversing lights.
On the engine management side of things we will keep them in a seperate loom so we will have a loom which follows the rear light loom and splits off to supply the fuel pump and inertia cut off switch.
Joey tries his hand at a bit of soldering, this is him soldering the wires from the Robin Hood supplied rear lights to a seperate little loom that incorperates a plug for easy disconnection. (All sourced from the donor).
I suppose if we had connected a load of round female connectors we could have disconnected just as easily but we did not have any so we decided to do it this way.
Now this is him wrapping the rear light cluster loom with some "self amalgamating tape" Brilliant stuff. He did struggle a bit with this stage and I must admit its a bit fiddly.
This is the worst phase of the build for Joey as Car Electrics are a bit complicated and its a bit much for a 12 year old to take in fully, He is doing well though.
This is the rear light cluster loom with the plug at the end for easy removal/Connection to the main loom.
We are glad you cannot see the multitude of wire colours under the tape they would scare you , but at least we know what is what.
Now an enjoyable bit for Joey the testing of the rear light loom and yes all the lights work as required, He has to touch the indicator wires on and off to simulate them flashing, (Hopefully that will not be the case when we get to the front of the loom.
Now here is a bit we have come across on the engine management side of things. We spent quite a lot of time thinking, "Whats 1X for then?" we have labelled it on the removal from donor stage but what on earth does 1X mean? It does not exist according to our Haynes manual (unless we are looking at the wrong diagram)
We are not messing around with it any longer but I have a thought that it may be something to do with a fuel computer or something like that, I am probably wrong but I think we do not need it so it will be dispensed with very soon.
It is situated between the Inertia cut off switch and the engine management relay (Via the inline fuse).
We did also manage to remove a big clump of wires tonight from the engine management relay (Rear numberplate and Boot light ?), but we will not post any more pictures of a pile of wires (Just imagine the first pile is definitely getting bigger, OK Jim)
Here's his nibs wrapping up the engine management loom, not much to remove here so a fairly easy job (Hope it all works). We spent quite a while trying to find what a 2 pin plug was for, it was between the plug 1x and a multi connection, after too long messing about with it we decided it was probably not needed but as it was only a little plug we left it in our new loom.
Change of plans now, after all our wiring work on the standard rear lights we saw a set of nice LED jobs on the SVC stand at a show and instantly wanted them so off came all the previous wiring and on went our new ones complete with their Carbon effect housings. We took a lot of time to trim the housings down so that the lights sat horizontal and we both feel it was worth all the extra work involved.
At first we decided to save money on the fog and reverse lights by just getting the ones which looked similar to the LED ones. When we came to fit them we were restricted in how deep the housing could be because where we cut our Fog light hole immediately behind the hole was a chassis downtube. In the end the easiest option was to return the Reverse and foglights and change the pair of them for "One" LED Foglight, These sit a lot flatter than the Bulb ones so it cleared the chassis tube easily. We decided that we did not need a Reversing light if we have any difficulty seeing where we were going whilst reversing, we could just switch on the Rear lights and Foglight and they are plenty bright enough for us to see then!